c/fence-erectors

Remember when we used to hand-dig every post hole? I had a week in '08 that changed my mind.

We were putting in a split-rail fence on a farm near Springfield, and the ground was pure clay. After two days of busted spades and blisters, the owner let us use his old tractor-mounted auger. We finished the whole 300-foot run in an afternoon. Anyone else have a job that finally made you switch to a power tool?

Had a customer in Springfield ask me why I was digging post holes by hand when his neighbor used an auger. He said, 'You're making this way harder on yourself, man.'

TIL a huge chunk of fence posts rot at ground level because of a capillary effect I never knew about.

Read it in an old agricultural extension bulletin from Iowa State, says moisture wicks up wood like a straw. Anyone else run into this and have a good fix besides just using metal posts?

Warning: I was setting post concrete in the rain for years until a city inspector in Charlotte shut me down.

Saw a fence in Sedona that looked like it was built by a ghost

I was out there last month checking out the red rocks and saw this old ranch fence. The posts were set at least 10 feet apart, and the wire was just looped around them with no tension. It was sagging so bad a rabbit could have walked under it without ducking. Who builds a fence that can't even keep out a determined breeze? Has anyone else seen a fence that made you wonder what the builder was thinking?

Watch out for that new 'self-leveling' post hole mix

Saw a crew using it on a job in Phoenix last month. They swore it saved them an hour on a 50-post run. I was totally skeptical, thought it was just marketing junk. Tried a single bag on a small repair job last week. Stuff actually works, sets level without any fuss. It's not cheap, about $22 a bag. Anyone else test this stuff on a bigger install yet?

I gave up on the 'perfect post hole' rule for a week and my work got faster

Everyone says you need to dig each post hole exactly 36 inches deep, no matter what. I was setting a line of fence in a really rocky part of my town last month, and hitting solid rock at about 28 inches on half the holes. The usual fix is to rent a breaker, which adds time and cost. So, for a 50-foot section, I just set those posts at 28 inches and packed the heck out of the concrete, making a wider base. I was sure it would fail. A big storm came through two weeks later with crazy wind, and that section held just as firm as the deeper ones. It made me think we might be too rigid with the rules sometimes when the ground is tough. When have you all adjusted the 'right way' because the site forced your hand?

I used to think those cheap plastic post levels were a joke, but after fighting a leaning gate for an afternoon, I finally tried one from a job site toolbox.

It saved me from having to reset two 4x4 posts on a cedar fence project in Dallas because I caught the lean before the concrete set, so what other simple tools have you guys found that actually pull their weight?

Had to pick between a 6-foot and 8-foot post for a sloped job in Tacoma

Client's yard dropped a solid 18 inches over 20 feet. Could either step the fence or rack it. Went with stepping, using the 8-footers for the low side. Took an extra day to set all the step-downs right. Anyone have a better method for a slope that steep?

Vent: A job in Phoenix last summer made me switch up my concrete mix for good.

The heat was so bad the standard bag mix was setting before I could get the post plumb. I started adding a retarder and mixing with cold water, which gave me the extra 5 minutes I needed. Anyone else in a hot climate have a go-to mix adjustment?

Remember when we all used to set posts with a sledge and a level?

Had a job in Austin last spring where the ground was pure rock. Tried the old way first, took us a full day for ten holes. Next day, rented a gas-powered post driver. Finished the other forty posts before lunch. The difference in speed and how straight they set was huge. Anyone still using a sledge for a whole run, or is that just for repairs now?

Appreciation post: The old timer who saved my day when a post hole collapsed

I was setting a 6-foot cedar panel in a client's yard in Tacoma last spring, and the ground was still wet from rain. I had the post in the hole, started pouring the concrete, and the whole side of the hole just gave way. This older guy from the house next door, who'd been watching from his porch, walked over with a shovel and a piece of scrap plywood. He showed me how to use the plywood as a temporary brace against the wall of the hole while I packed the concrete in, which kept the post perfectly straight. Has anyone else run into this with soggy soil and found a better trick?

Showerthought: Setting posts in concrete versus gravel pack for a vinyl fence

I keep seeing crews in my area just backfilling with gravel for vinyl posts, but my old boss insisted on a full concrete collar every time. He said a 6-inch pour around the base prevents frost heave better, but gravel is way faster. Which method actually holds up better over a few winters?

Hot take: I started using a 2x4 as a temporary brace for vinyl fence posts and it's way better than metal stakes.

Had a big job in Boise with super rocky soil, metal stakes kept bending. Used a treated 2x4 cut to 4 feet, drove it in at an angle and zip-tied the post. Saved me a ton of time and money on replacements. Anyone else use wood for bracing on tough ground?

Just spent three days on a single post hole because of a hidden concrete slab

Got a job in an older part of town last week, a simple 6-foot privacy fence line. Started digging the first corner post hole with my auger and hit something solid about a foot down. Thought it was a rock, so I switched to a digging bar. Turns out it was a chunk of old sidewalk slab, about 3 feet by 2 feet, buried and forgotten. Had to get a concrete saw to cut it into pieces, then a mini excavator to pull the chunks out. What should have been a 20-minute hole took me three full days of work. The client had no idea it was there, and the old property lines didn't show it. Ever run into something like that where the ground just fought back for no good reason?

Showerthought: I was at the old city park in Springfield and saw a cedar fence that's been up since the 80s, still standing straight.

Spent $80 on a post hole digger attachment for my drill

It snapped the auger bit on the second hole in our rocky Colorado soil. What's your go-to method for getting through tough ground?

Why does nobody talk about setting posts in CLAY soil?

I'm putting up a wood fence around my property, and the ground is PURE CLAY. Every time I dig a hole, it fills with water and won't drain. I've tried using gravel, but the posts still get wobbly. How do you guys make them STAY PUT in this kind of soil?

Pro tip: Hand-tamping concrete around posts cut my callbacks in half

I used to rely on a vibrating plate for setting posts, but it often left voids. Since I switched to hand-tamping, the concrete sets more evenly and I have fewer issues with leaning fences.

I finally had a boss who swore by using a kids' toy to check if fence posts were straight.

My manager brought his daughter's toy level to the site and said it was just as good as our tools. We had to redo three sections because the posts were all tilted funny. What's the silliest substitute for proper equipment you've come across?

Setting posts after heavy rain made me try something new

The ground was soaked on a job yesterday, and my usual digger just sank... I ended up using a manual auger with wider blades, and it gripped way better in the mud. What's your move when the soil is too wet?

TIL my buddy's kid thought we were building a castle wall, not a fence

We were putting up a simple wood fence in his backyard. His son brought out action figures and asked where the turrets go. The kid was CONVINCED we needed a gate for his imaginary horse. We had a good laugh explaining it's just to keep the dog in. Now he wants us to come back and build a real fort someday.

PSA: My back still aches from the days of hand-digging post holes

I started fencing when every hole was dug by hand, and it was a real workout. These days, we have machines that do it in no time, but I wonder if we've lost some of the craft. What old-school method do you still use, even with all the new gear?

Why I always double-check grade with a water level instead of a laser

I used to SWEAR by my laser level for setting posts, but on a BRIGHT sunny day last summer, I couldn't see the beam at ALL. It was SO frustrating because I wasted an hour trying to get a reading. Now I keep a cheap water level in my truck for backup. You just fill it with water, hook the ends on two stakes, and the water line shows you EXACT level. It works in any light and doesn't need batteries. I've caught my laser being off by a full inch before, which would have ruined a whole section of fence. This little hack has saved me from so many callbacks. Trust me, give it a try on your next sloped job.

My crew laughs, but I use cedar for every post now

It saves headaches later when treated wood fails.