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Finally got a stubborn color correction right after three long appointments

I had a client come in with box dye that went super brassy orange, and she wanted a cool ash brown. In my experience, those orange tones are tough to lift without going green. The first session, I used a level 7 ash with a violet booster, but it just sat on top and looked muddy. Second try, I did a soap cap with 10 volume, which helped a bit but left a weird band. What finally worked, after maybe 8 hours total over three visits, was a careful cleanse with a clarifying shampoo, then a custom mix of a level 6 neutral and a tiny bit of blue direct dye to cancel the warmth without over-depositing. Has anyone else found a better way to handle that specific orange-to-ash shift without multiple steps?
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3 Comments
sammoore
sammoore1mo ago
Oh man, box dye orange is the final boss of hair color. It laughs at your first ash formula and just gets angrier with each visit. Spending eight hours to basically give it a very careful time-out with blue dye sounds about right. I swear that specific orange has a personal grudge against every colorist on the planet.
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the_nina
the_nina12d ago
Soap cap at 20 volume on dry hair works faster for me there.
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betty_price14
Ugh, that orange is the worst. I had luck with a two-step process, first using a color remover to strip the old dye out a bit, then a level 5 ash with a blue base. The remover made all the difference for me, got it to a clean canvas.
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